Santa Cruz Island
Charles Darwin Research Center
Everyone was taking the same excursion today so after another light breakfast, we signed up with Sandy and Rusty to get on the same tender. After disembarking at the pier, we had a short bus ride and then about a 10 minute walk to the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island.
The highlight here were the tortoises. We saw quite a few walking around in the various exhibits and our guide explained the mission of the center was to breed endemic tortoise species from each island (as each island had its own species) and then return them to their respective islands. We were able to see the enclosures where baby turtles had been bred in 2019, 2020 and 2022 and marvel at the tiny creatures. The breeding program did not occur after March 2020 due to the pandemic so there were no tortoises from 2021.
Puerto Ayora
There was a small museum and gift shop at the end of the tour and then we began our walk back to Puerto Ayora, which is the largest town in the Galapagos Islands. We stopped at the fish market, where a group of pelicans were perched waiting for their chance to steal some of the catch. A small sea lion had placed himself directly under one of the tables where fish was being sold, waiting for breakfast to fall into his lap. Another sea lion was just lounging on the sidewalk near the ocean.
Tree Planting
We boarded the first bus to come along, which would take us to our next activity, which was a tree planting. We drove to an area known as Los Gemelos, where we disembarked from the bus and changed out of our tennis shoes into heavy rubber boots. Each of was handed a shovel and two scalesia trees and we trudged through the mud to an open field. Scalesia is endemic to the Galapagos Islands and has been referred to as the Darwin's finches of the plant world due to their great ability of adaptive radiation. Each of the species has adapted to the different vegetation zones across the different islands. In this particular area, the non-endemic blueberry had taken over. Conservationists had cleared the area and now were replanting scalesia. We took our plants to pre-dug holes, placed them carefully and filled the holes with dirt. Then we trudged our way back up to the road and changed out of our boots and climbed back on the bus.
Rancho El Manzanillo Lunch
We drove back down to Rancho El Manzanillo, where we would be eating lunch. Along the way, we saw many giant tortoises along the side of the road, and even one blocking our path. We were seated at long tables with a good view of the courtyard and the tortoises walking around. J. R. had a Cervesa Artesanal Boobies Blonde Ale with his lunch, which was a buffet of Ecuadorian food. His stomach was starting to disagree with him again, so he ate very little but others said the food was very good.
Lunch Menu
Local Dancers
After lunch, it was time for a demonstration of local dances from school children in the area. They were energetic and entertaining and we still aren't sure how one can dance with a bottle on one's head.
Galapagos Tortoises
Following the dance, it was time to put the rubber boots back on and go visit with the tortoises. Our guide explained how researchers use the scat from the tortoises to see what they eat and help plan their diets, so think about that next time you complain about your job. We were able to get quite close to the tortoises and Manuel told us the story of how he used to have one as a pet when he was little. This, of course, is now illegal, as is killing the animals. You can, however, use the shells of tortoises that die naturally.
After our tortoise visit, it was back on the bus for a ride back to Puerto Ayora. There was an opportunity to do some shopping there, but we were pretty tired and had seen all of the stores we wanted to in the morning, so we got on one of the early tenders back to the ship. The water had turned very rough and the tender was bouncing around a lot, causing everyone to feel queasy and it seemed to have an effect on J. R., who felt very sick by the time we returned to the Flora.
Dinner
We changed and relaxed for a bit and then went down to the departure briefing, champagne toast and viewing the slideshow of memories the crew had put together. We learned the ship had acquired lobster for dinner and most everyone was excited, except J. R. We went into the Seaside for dinner with the group, but even the thought of food made him queasy so he left early and headed to the medical center. Jean took over his chair and after having some lobster, she also left feeling ill, causing that chair to be christened the 'death chair'. The medic gave J. R. some pills and a vile salt liquid to provide electrolytes and he was in bed by the time Janie turned in for the night.
